Book: Itinerary through Corsica

C >> Charles Bertram Black >> Itinerary through Corsica




[Headnote: ST. FLORENT.]

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ST. FLORENT, pop. 760. Hotel de l'Europe, where a hurried breakfast can
be had while the horses are being changed. Close to the village is the
site of the ancient town of Nebbio, occupied now by a few poor houses
and a small church, now a ruin, built in the 12th century. Napoleon
said, "St. Florent has one of the finest situations I have ever seen. It
lies most favourably for commerce, its landing places are safe and its
roads can accommodate large fleets. I should have built there a large
and beautiful city." It was one of the first places to give adherence to
the Bank of Genoa.

The road now for some distance leaves the shore and ascends a range of
barren hills containing slate, limestone and granite. Hardy trees become
more abundant than the chestnut, and the mountains higher and more
imposing, as we approach the little port of

[Headnote: L'ILE ROUSSE.]

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L'ILE ROUSSE, pop. 1610; Hotel Europe. The diligence stops in the
"Place" near the monument to Pascal Paoli, and remains a sufficient time
to enable the traveller to cast a glance over the main features of this
port, founded by Paoli in 1759. The street beyond the "Place" leads by
the market to the harbour and to the long jagged tongue of red sandstone
rocks projecting into the sea, bearing on the extreme point a lighthouse
of the fourth order. Steamer every alternate week to Marseilles. There
is a charming view from the eminence St. Reparata, crowned with a
church, now abandoned.

Inland from L'Ile Rousse is the fertile valley of Balagna, famous for
the size and fertility of its olive trees (p. 20).

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ALGAJOLA, pop. 200. The block of granite which forms the pedestal of the
column in the Place Vendome came from the quarries of this place.
Pillars 65 feet long can be procured from this quarry.

[Headnote: LUMIO.]

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LUMIO, pop. 1100, among orange groves and high cactus hedges. From the
hills here there is a beautiful view of the valley and gulf of Calvi.
Junction here with road to Corte, 55-1/2 miles, south-east, passing through
a charming and picturesque country (see p. 20).

[Headnote: CALVI.]

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CALVI, pop. 2200. _Inns:_ H. France, in the high town; *Colombani, in
the low town, near the dil. office and the wharf. Steamer for Marseilles
every alternate week. This, the nearest port to France, is composed of
the Citadel or Haute Ville and the Port or Basse Ville. The former,
although the residence of the public functionaries, has a dilapidated
and forsaken appearance. A rough road, paved with blocks of granite,
leads up to it and to the ramparts, commanding beautiful and extensive
views. The houses, shops and streets of the Basse Ville are much better
and more cheerful than those in the Citadel. Both are defended by Fort
Mozzello, rising behind the harbour. On the Punta-Revellata is a
lighthouse of the first order, with a fixed light seen 20 miles off.
Eight miles S.E. from Calvi is Calenzana, pop. 2900, with the chapel of
S. Restituta, visited by pilgrims.


Calvi to Ajaccio.

miles from CALVI
miles to AJACCIO

{ }{102}
Distance 102 miles S.E. The road skirts the coast the greater part of
the way. The first village is Galeria, pop. 500--_Inn:_ Seta, 21 miles
S. from Calvi. From Galeria the Route Forestiere, No. 8, extends 16
miles eastwards to the Col Capronale, 4495 feet, in the forest of Ometa.
Six miles from Galeria is the entrance to the forest of evergreen oaks
of Treccio, as well as the commencement of the road, 4-1/2 m. long, to the
forest of Perticato by the Col Erbajo, 3-1/2 m., 2090 ft., and the Bocca
Melza, 4-1/2 m. 2500 ft.


Galeria to the Forests of Filosorma.

Grand scenery. Guide necessary. Map, p. 20.

This, the forest road No. 8, has two ramifications. The main line
follows the course of the Fango the whole way, and only becomes a
mule-path when near the Maison de Cantonniers d'Ometa, 14 m. E.

3-3/4 m. from Galeria a mule-path ramifies from the road to the hamlets
of Tuarelli, Prunicciole and Chiorna. 3 m. farther is the
ramification, 4-1/2 m. S., through the forest of Perticato by the Col
d'Erbajo, 2090 ft., 3-1/2 m. S., and the Bocca Melza, 2500 ft., 4-1/2 m.
S. From the Bocca Melza a very bad path leads 2 m. S. to the hamlet of
Pinito. At the beginning of the above ramification the main road
enters the Ilex forest of Treccio, and leaves it nearly 2 m.
afterwards.

8-3/4 m. from Galeria is a roadside inn, and 3-1/4 m. farther the
entrance into the Ilex forest of Ometa.

11-1/4 m. from Galeria and about 2 m. from the almost unknown valley of
the Lonca, an affluent of the Porto, is the Pont de Lancone, 1083
ft., across the Rocce. From this bridge there is a good view of Mt.
Tafonato, 7687 ft., to the N. E., with its singularly perforated
peak.

13-1/4 m. is the Grand Cassis d'Ometa, 1680 ft. A little farther the
road becomes a bridle-path, and ascends from 1677 ft. to the Maison
de Cantonniers d'Ometa, 2274 ft., and 1 m. farther is the end of the
forest of Ometa.

15 m. from Galeria is the Grand Cassis de Giargione, 1163 ft., and
about 2 m. farther the summit of Col Capronale, 4495 ft. A little
way beyond, at the Capo Guagnerola, is a beautiful semicircle of
reddish rocks covered with trees at the base. Farther E. by the Golo
this forest road joins the forest road No. 9 to Francardo (p. 18).

Having crossed the Col de Castellaccio, 850 feet, and passed through
the villages of Partinello and Vitriccia, 20 m. from Galeria, we
arrive at

miles from CALVI
miles to AJACCIO

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PORTO (_Inn:_ H. Padoram), occupying a pleasant and sheltered situation
at the head of a fine gulf, with a climate rivalling that of Ajaccio.
Most of the timber from the forests of Valdoniello and Perticato is
shipped here. For Porto to Ponte Francardo, see p. 18.

The road from Porto to La Piana (map, p. 20) affords a delightful
drive, and exhibits good engineering. It is cut for a considerable
distance through the rocks and cliffs and tall jagged peaks, like
cypresses turned into stone, standing on the edge of this savage
coast, parts of which are truly splendid. As the ascent is slowly
continued, charming views disclose themselves, and on each side of
the road the eye discerns some new beauty to dwell upon. At the Col
Geneparo, to the right are the ruins of the castle of the Colonnas
di Leca, rising boldly above the sea and surrounded and protected by
magnificent natural battlements and pinnacles. Six miles from Porto,
after having passed the Cols of Geneparo and Mezzano, both about
1250 feet, the traveller reaches

[Headnote: LA PIANA.]

miles from CALVI
miles to AJACCIO

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LA PIANA, 1587 feet, pop. 1280. _Inn:_ H. France. Delightfully situated,
with a fine sea-view. From the Col San Martino, 1 m. from La Piana and
1630 feet above the sea, the landscape undergoes a rapid change. The
magnificent rocks become parched and arid and the grass as yellow as the
soil where it tries to grow.

[Headnote: CARGESE.]

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CARGESE, pop. 1100. _Inn:_ H. de Voyageurs. A large village at the foot
of a hill which slopes down to the sea. It was founded by a colony of
730 Greeks, who, fleeing from the oppression of the Turks, arrived and
settled here, by the permission of the Genoese, in March 1676. For
having refused to aid Paoli in 1755 against the Genoese their villages
were burnt to the ground, and they themselves had to seek refuge in
Ajaccio. After the cession of Corsica to the French in 1769 M. de
Marboeuf had the village and church of Cargese built for the colonists,
when they all returned. Greek is still spoken in the village, and it has
a Greek as well as a Romanist priest.

[Headnote: SAGONA.]

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SAGONA, pop. 100. The port of Vico. It contains a few houses, one of
which is the inn, where beds, bread, eggs, coffee and wine can be had.
On the beach are generally large logs brought down from the forests for
shipment. Junction with road to Vico 9-1/4 miles E. (see p. 23), and also
with the road extending 19 miles E. to the forest of Aitone, passing by
the Col Vico, 7-1/2 m., 1607 ft.; Poggio, 12-1/2 m.; the Col Sevi, 3612
ft., 13-1/4 m.; Cristinacce, 16-1/2 m.; and the Col Lacciola, 3040 ft. in
the forest. Five and a half miles from Sagona are the cold sulphurous
springs of Caldanella; efficacious as a tonic.

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CALCATOGGIO, pop. 670. A poor village on a hill above the road. From
this the diligence shortly after commences the ascent of the Col
Sebastien, 1344 feet, 12 miles from Ajaccio. After the Col Sebastien,
the road having passed over the Col Staggiola, 930 feet, within a short
distance of Appietto, situated on a hill; reaches

AJACCIO, 102 miles south-west from Calvi.


Porto to the Ponte Francardo.

50 miles north-east. Map, p. 20.

This important forest road traverses the region of the highest
mountains and of the greatest forests, passes through Albertacce,
and by the other villages of the Canton of Calacuccia, and then
proceeds to Francardo by the defile of the Golo.

Porto to Evisa, 13-3/4 m., by an excellent carriage road wending
through most picturesque mountain scenery. The road, after following
the course of the Porto, crosses the stream Onda, ascends the ravine
of the Cario, which it crosses 3 m. from Porto under the Capo
Polmonaccia, 5627 ft. It now winds its way round little valleys into
the narrow gorge of the Porto between dark red cliffs crowned with
pinnacles. Nine m. from Porto is the ramification of the mule-path
to Chidazzo, and 1/2 m. farther the ramification to Marignano. The
road, after passing the chapelle S. Cyprien, enters Evisa, pop.
1000; _Inn:_ *H. Carrara; 2770 ft., on a high promontory projecting
in the centre of a mountain-girt basin from the central range
between two deep gulfs hollowed out to a depth of 2000 ft. Behind it
rise pine forests to a broad mountain crest, the pass of the Niolo.

Evisa is admirably situated for excursions. A difficult winding path
leads in 2-1/2 hours down to the great walls of the dark granite ravine
called the Spelunca, at the confluence of the Aitone with the Porto.
Rambles and drives into the forest of Aitone, from which
unfortunately the old stately pines have disappeared.

Evisa to Albertacce, 18 m. E. The road traverses the forest of
Aitone with its vigorous beeches and young pines (_Pinus laricio_),
whose stems are clear of branches from 80 to 100 ft. It is watered
by the Porto and numerous brawling streams; which rush down steep
ravines covered with moss and ferns. In the forest, 3 m. from Evisa,
by this road, is the Maison forestiere d'Aitone, where those
provided with introductions, see p. 41, will find pleasant
headquarters for grand excursions and fishing and botanical
expeditions. 1-1/4 m. farther is the house of the road menders
(Cantonniers) of Tagnone; where lodging can also be had.

The road having made several detours to get round the heads of
ravines, ascends the Col de Vergio 4803 ft. on the great mountain
chain separating the valley of the Golo from the valley of the
Porto. About 230 ft. above the Col on the Cricche ridge, a little to
the W., is an admirable view of Mt. Tafonato, 7687 ft., almost due
N., with a strange natural tunnel through the summit. From Mt.
Cuculla, 6733 ft., nearly 1-3/4 hours W. from the Col is a still better
view of Tafonato, and besides a sight of Mt. Cinto, the valley of
the Golo and the mountain range of Monte Rotondo. A little beyond
the summit of the Col is the Maison de Cantonniers de Castellaccio,
whence there is a good view of the forest of Valdoniello, 11,483
acres, containing besides many large pines very fine specimens of
beeches, birches and alders. The felling of the trees in this forest
commenced in 1863.

After arriving at the Maison forestiere de Sciattarina 10-1/2 m. from
Evisa, the road passes by some of the finest trees, and descends
into the valley of the Golo; which has its source in a ravine
between Mts. Tafonato and Paglia-Orba.

Four and a half miles farther is the Maison forestiere de Popaja,
3468 ft., 15 m. from Evisa and 3 m. from Albertacce. Either this
house or the former, make good quarters for exploring the forest.

Two miles farther is the Ponte Alto, 2740 ft.; where the road
crosses the Golo and enters the pastoral country of the Niolo; now
called the canton of Calacuccia, comprehending the villages of
Albertacce, Calacuccia, Corscia, Lozzi, and Casamaccioli.

From near the bridge a mule path of 1-3/4 m. ascends to Casamaccioli,
2780 ft., pop. 550; whence the continuation leads in 7 hours to
Corte by the Bocca la Croce, the Melo forest, and the valley of the
Tavignano.

[Headnote: ALBERTACCE.--MONTE CINTO.]

Albertacce, 18 m. from Evisa, 2845 ft., pop. 1000, a dirty village
amidst chestnut and walnut trees; where a good deal of coarse linen
and Corsican cloth is woven. It is one of the places whence the
ascent is made of Monte Cinto, 8892 ft., in 7 hours, and in about 6
for the descent. The path ascends by Calasima, 3610 ft., to the
height of 5251 ft. After this the course extends almost horizontally
in a western direction across ridges, ascending by gradations more
or less fatiguing.

When about 7720 ft., and having climbed nearly 6 hours, a cave is
passed where shelter can be had. The remainder of the ascent is
comparatively easy. The view is grand, Monte Falo, 8363 ft., being
the most prominent object. The ascent cannot be made till the
beginning of summer on account of the snow.

[Headnote: LAKE NINO.]

To Lake Nino, 5598 ft., the source of the Tavignano in 5 hours.
From the lake a mule path chiefly by the left bank of the Tavignano,
leads in 6-1/2 hours to Corte, through magnificent forests.

Around the lake are some shepherds huts; where rest and refreshment
can be had, but no further supply of food can be counted on between
the lake and Corte. The lake, full of fish, lies in a hollow between
high mountains, the highest being Mt. Retto, 6592 at the western
end.

Albertacce to Ponte Francardo, 18 m. N.E. The road follows the
Golo. To the left, a road 1-1/4 m., leads up to Lozzi, pop. 1050.
2-1/2 m. from Albertacce is Calacuccia, 2779 ft. pop. 860, and 2 m.
farther, another byeroad ascends to Corscia, 2913 ft., pop. 1000,
about 5 hours walk S. from Asco, whence also Mt. Cinto may be
ascended by the valley of the Asco called also Stranciacone. Asco is
5 hours from Olmi Capella by the Stranciacone, its affluent the
Tassinella, and the Col de Petrella, 6440 ft., to the S. of Mt.
Corona, 7032 ft.

Near the chapel of S. Pancrazio, 2786 ft., 4 m. from Albertacce is
the commencement of the Scala di Santa Regina, as this part of road
is called, cut in the face of perpendicular cliffs rising from the
bed of the Golo. About half way are the small chapel and inn of
Santa Regina, and the cave which in former times used to be the
stronghold of robbers.

Thirteen miles from Albertacce is the Pont du Diable, 1083 ft.,
where four roads meet. The road southwards or to the right leads to
Corte, 7 m. S. by Castirla and Soveria, and the Col of Oninanda,
2155 ft., between cliffs rising 1720 ft. above it.

[Headnote: ASCO.]

The road leading northwards extends to the beautiful highway between
Ponte alla Leccia and Calvi; by Castiglione 3-1/4 m., pop. 550, at the
foot of Mt. Traunato, 7186 ft., Popolasca, 7 m., pop. 200, with
beautiful red granite pinnacles, and Moltifao 12 m., pop. 1050, with
Inn, consisting of a group of villages, clustered on the slopes of
the ridge which separate the valley of the Tartagine from the Asco.
The byeroad S.W. from Moltifao leads up the highly picturesque
valley of the Asco, with magnificent forest trees, to the village of
Asco, pop. 950, a group of hamlets seldom visited, although one of
the best points from which to make the ascent of Mt. Cinto.

[Headnote: PONTE FRANCARDO.]

The road leading 5 m. N.E. by the Golo extends to the Ponte
Francardo, where the rail may be taken. See p. 9 and General Map.


Calvi to Corte or to Bastia.

See General Map.

By Ponte alla Leccia. The finest part of the road is between Calvi
and the Col Colombano. "If I were to permit myself to dwell in
detail on the exquisite variety and charm of the drive, especially
after quitting the _route forestiere_ a little E. of the hamlet of
Palasca, I should wander far from the main purpose of this paper.
Valery, Gregorovius, Lear and others have done justice to its
wonderful beauty, and the last truly remarks that 'those who visit
Corsica without going through upper Balagne remain ignorant of one
of its finest divisions,' adding, 'no description can exaggerate the
beauty of this remarkable tract of mountain background and deep
valley, which for richness of foreground, cheerful fertility and
elegance of distance may compete with most Italian landscapes.' The
district is densely peopled--at least twelve large villages are
situated on the road itself between Belgodere and Lumio, a distance
of 21 miles--and picturesque hamlets with lofty campanili perch high
up on the mountain slopes or crown the summits of the lower hills,
whilst everywhere there is the richest culture and most varied
produce, and the charm of the picture is completed by continually
varying views over 'bowery hollows crowned with summer sea.'"--F. F.
Tuckett, Alpine Club.

[Headnote: THE OLIVE TREE.]

miles from CALVI
miles to CORTE

{ }{61}
CALVI. The road skirts the coast as far as Lumio, 6 m. from Calvi,
whence it commences to ascend gradually by an admirably engineered road
round the undulations of olive-clad mountains, disclosing at every turn
a different view of the fertile valley of Balagna, extending from the
distant mountains to the blue waters of the Mediterranean. It is said
that there is no district throughout the whole of Italy where the olive
attains such a size as in this valley. Of the tree there are three
varieties, the Sabine (_Sabinacci_), the Saracen (_Saraceni_), and the
Genoese (_Genovesi_), the most common of all, and is ascribed to the
Genoese, who during the government of Agostino Doria compelled the
Corsicans to plant olives in great numbers.

[Map: Corsica Western Central Region]

After passing the picturesquely situated village of Lavatoggio, 9 m.;
the Col Cesario, 1200 ft., 10-1/2 m.; the villages of Feliceto, inn, pop.
640, 16-1/4 m.; Castor, 24 m.; Speloncato; Ville di Paraso, pop. 750;
Occhiatana, and many more perched on the surrounding mountain tops, or
nestling in nooks among olive and chestnut trees, the diligence arrives
at

[Headnote: BELGODERE.]

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BELGODERE, 1017 feet, pop. 950, commanding the finest view of this
beautiful valley, its orchards, fields and mountains undulating towards
the blue sea. The diligence just remains long enough to give time to run
through the gate and up the narrow dirty street to the top of the rock
on which the houses are clustered, and there to take a rapid glance at
the lovely scene around and underneath. After the gate, the diligence
halts at the post-office, and then moves on a few yards towards the
stables, where the horses are changed.

FOREST ROAD FROM BELGODERE TO THE FOREST OF TARTAGINE.

[Headnote: CAPELLA.--TARTAGINE FOREST.]

From Belgodere, Route Forestiere, No. 3, leads down to the small
port of Losari, 6 miles N. from Belgodere and 4-1/2 E. from the Ile
Rousse. A continuation of the same route southward extends to the
bridge across the Tartagine, 2355 feet, 25 miles from the Ile
Rousse, in the great forest of Tartagine. It passes the Bocca
Campana, 2782 feet, 3-1/4 miles from Belgodere; the Bocca Croce, 3045
feet, the culminating part of the road, 7 miles from Belgodere; and
2-1/2 miles farther, the hamlets of Olmi and Capella, 9 miles from
Speloncato; with ever-varying mountain and village scenes among
great forests; 20 m. from Belgodere is the Pont Tartagine in the
forest of that name. The forest of Tartagine, enclosed within the
high crests of the Capo Dente 6667 ft. on the west, and of Mt. Padro
on the east, measures 7166 acres, and contains principally the
_Pinus laricio_ and the _P. pinaster_, intermingled with ilexes or
evergreen oaks (p. 41).

"Olmi-Capella 2723 ft. is in an open airy situation, commanding fine
views of the mountains to the S. and S.W., and protected to some
extent on the N. and N.W. by the ridge which sweeps round to the
head of the Tartagine valley. This ridge, though in the
neighbourhood of the village only about 1000 ft. above the sloping
plateau on which it is built, rises to the W. into the peaks of
Monte Tolo 4370 ft., Monte San Parteo 5512 ft., Monte Cineraggia
5286 ft., Monte Grosso 6227 ft., Punta Radiche 6595 ft., Capo al
Dente 6667 ft., and Monte Corona 7031 ft. The N. slope of this ridge
is very steep, and commands most magnificent views of the Haute
Balagne and the sea beyond, whilst it is traversed by numerous
passes which afford charming scenery. Besides the _route
forestiere_, which crosses the Col de Bocca Croce 3048 ft., and by
which the timber of the forest of Tartagine is conveyed to Ile
Rousse for shipment, several mule-paths connect Olmi Capella much
more directly with Ville and Speloncato by the Bocca Battaglia 3550
ft., and Bocca Croce d'Ovo 3629 feet; with Feliceto by the Bocca
Pianile 5033 ft.; with Zilia and Calvi by the Bocca di Cineraggia
4698 ft.; with Calenzana by the Bocca Bianca 6155 ft., with
Calenzana or the Val Ficarella by the Bocca di Tartagine 6093 ft.;
and with the head of the valley of Asco by the Bocca de l'Ondella
6086 ft."--F. F. Tuckett, Alpine Club.

[Headnote: PALASCA.]

miles from CALVI
miles to CORTE

{28-3/4}{32-1/4}
PALASCA, pop. 550. Situated lower down than the high road and the last
village on this side of the

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COL DE SAN COLOMBANO, 2625 feet above the sea. The view though more vast
is less distinct, presenting a succession of mountain-tops, between
which are dimly seen valleys with the sea in the distance. The diligence
now descends into the narrow, rocky vale of the Navaccia, an affluent of
the Tartagine, which enters the Golo a little above the important bridge
called the

[Headnote: PONTE ALLA LECCIA.]

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PONTE ALLA LECCIA. Inn at station. Here take rail for Corte (see p. 8)
or for Bastia, 29 miles N.E. (see p. 10). The Ponte Nuovo is distinctly
seen from the station. The two small houses near the railway bridge, on
the S. side of the Golo, were Paoli's headquarters during the battle
(see pp. 9 and 39).

{61}
CORTE, see page 8.


Ajaccio to Vico and Evisa.

33 miles north; time 7 to 8 hours; fare 4 frs.

miles from AJACCIO
miles to VICO

{ }{33}
AJACCIO. At about two miles from the town the diligence commences the
ascent of the low Col of Stileto, passing the aqueduct for the Gravona
water. On the left hand are the granite quarries whence the large slabs
were taken for the monument to Napoleon in the Place d'Armes, as well as
the long blocks for the pillars of the Marseilles cathedral. To the
right are the village of Appietto, pop. 700, on a hill and the great
cliff Monte Gozzi, 656 feet high.

{12}{21}
Summit of the COL ST. SEBASTIEN, 1344 feet above the sea, commanding a
lovely prospect of the Bays of Liscia, Sagona and Cargese, and of the
valley of Cinarca, with its villages and vineyards. At the foot of the
Col is a small inn called Le Repos des Voyageurs, where bread and wine
and capital sea-urchins can be had. They are eaten raw, and taken out of
the shell by cutting it in two horizontally.

{23}{10}
SAGONA, junction with road to Calvi, 79 miles N. (see p. 17).

{31}{2}
Summit of the COL ST. ANTOINE, 1488 feet. Near the top, at some distance
to the left, is the village of Balogna, pop. 600, while in front is seen
the splendid range of the Monte Rotondo, among which the most
conspicuous is La Sposata, at the head of wooded valleys.

The road to the left or N. leads to Evisa, 18 miles from Vico, pop.
1000, and 2770 feet above the sea. _Hotel:_ Carrara, a comfortable
house, where vehicles may be hired. Evisa is charmingly situated on the
confines of the forest of Aitone, containing 3,749 acres. Beyond Aitone,
or 11 miles from Evisa, is the large forest of Valdoniello, 11,483
acres. These forests, instead of extending monotonously on large plains,
plunge into deep valleys, or creep up the sides of high mountains.

From Evisa descend to Porto (see p. 18).

[Headnote: VICO.]

miles from AJACCIO
miles to VICO

{33}
VICO, pop. 2020. _Inns:_ France, where the diligence stops; Voyageurs;
Univers. Most picturesquely situated in the valley of the Liamone,
surrounded by steep mountains covered with apple, peach, chestnut,
walnut, olive and oak trees. On the opposite side of the valley is the
large whitewashed convent of St. Francis, with terraced garden shaded by
tall magnolias, beautifully placed on a thickly-wooded bank, above which
is seen the small hamlet of Nessa. It is a favourite summer resort of
the _elite_ of Ajaccio, who revel here on carpets of cyclamen, violets,
and a profusion of other wild flowers, in the shade of the dense foliage
of the chestnut groves around.

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