Book: Successful Exploration Through the Interior of Australia

W >> William John Wills >> Successful Exploration Through the Interior of Australia




The Wonominta Ranges are high, bare-looking hills, lying to the
eastward of the creek; the highest peaks must be between two and
three thousand feet above the sea. The blacks say that there is no
water in them--an assertion that I can scarcely credit. They say,
however, that there is a fine creek, with permanent water, to the
east of the ranges, flowing northwards. At the point of the
Wonominta Creek where we camped there is a continuous waterhole of
more than a mile long, which, they say, is never dry. It is from
fifteen to twenty feet broad, and averages about five feet in
depth, as near as I could ascertain. From this point, Camp 43, the
creek turns to the north-west and around to north, where it enters
a swamp, named Wannoggin; it must be the same that Sturt crossed in
coming across from Evelyn Plains. In going over to Wannoggin, a
distance of fourteen miles, I found the plains everywhere
intersected by small creeks, most of them containing water, which
was sheltered from the sun by the overhanging branches of drooping
shrubs, tall marshmallows, and luxuriant salt bushes; and at some
of them were hundreds of ducks and waterhens. When crossing some
flats of light-coloured clay soil, near Wannoggin, and which were
covered with box timber, one might almost fancy himself in another
planet, they were so arid and barren. The Wannoggin Swamp is at
present dry, but I believe it is generally a fine place for water.
Birds are very numerous about there, and I noticed that by far the
greater portion of the muslka trees (a species of acacia) contained
nests, either old or new.

At about twenty miles from Wonominta, in a north-north-easterly
direction, there is a fine creek, with a waterhole about a mile
long, which we passed; and Mr. Wright tells me there is a larger
one further up the creek.

The land in the neighbourhood of the Torowoto Swamp is very fine
for pastoral purposes. It is rather low and swampy, and therefore
better for cattle than for sheep. There appears to be a gradual
fall in the land from Totoynya to this place, amounting to about
500 feet. This swamp can scarcely be more than 600 feet above the
sea, if so much. The highest ground over which we have passed has
been in the Mount Doubeny Ranges, from Langawirra to Bengora, and
that appears to be about 1000 feet above the sea. Mount Bengora is,
by barometrical observation, about 300 feet above the camp at
Bengora, but it is not the highest peak in the range by perhaps
fifty or sixty feet; and I think we may assume that the highest
peak does not exceed 1,500 feet above the sea.

Meteorogical.--We have been very fortunate up to the present time
as regards the weather, both in having had plenty of water and
moderate temperatures. The thermometer has never risen above 88.5
degrees in the shade, and has seldom been below 50 degrees, the
average daily range having been from 58 to 80 degrees. During our
stay on the Darling, the temperature of the water varied very
slightly, being always between 65 and 67 degrees. The winds have
generally been light, frequently going all round the compass in the
course of the day; but in any case it has almost invariably fallen
calm after sunset. Cirri and cirrostratus clouds have been very
prevalent during the day, and cumulostratus during the night.

Wells and Creeks.--The temperature of the water in the well at
Kokriega, at ten A.M. October 21, was 58.5 degrees, being exactly
the same as the temperature of the air. That of the water between
the rocks, at Bilpa, at five P.M. on the same day, was 64 degrees,
the temperature of air being 75 degrees. The temperature of the
water in the sand at Naudtherungee, at seven A.M. on the 26th, was
59.5 degrees, that of the air being 62 degrees. At five A.M.
October 28, the temperature of the water in Wonominta Creek was 63.
5 degrees, that of the air being 62 degrees.

Note.--The temperature of the water is always taken within six
inches of the surface.

. . .

The Royal Commission of Inquiry censured Mr. Burke for
the appointment of Mr. Wright, without personal knowledge of him;
and, judging by the lamentable results, a grave mistake it was. But
Mr. Burke was placed in great difficulty by the resignation of Mr.
Landells and Dr. Beckler, and acted to the best of his judgment
under the circumstances, with the means at his disposal. His
confidence, too hastily bestowed, was repaid by ingratitude and
contumely. Wright never spoke of his commander without using terms
of disparagement, and dwelling on his incapacity. "He was gone to
destruction," he said, "and would lose all who were with him." He
repeated these words to me, and others even stronger, both in
Melbourne and in Adelaide. McDonough, in his evidence before the
Royal Commission, was asked, "What did you say as to Mr. Wright's
desponding?" He answered (436): "He always gave Mr. Burke up as
lost; said he was neither gone to Queensland nor anywhere else; the
man has rushed madly on, depending upon surface water, and is lost
in the desert. He never gave us any hope for him; in fact, so much
so, that I offered to make a bet that he would be found at
Queensland, or turn up somewhere."

It has been seen by Mr. Burke's despatch of the 29th of October,
that he gave orders to Mr. Wright to follow him up to Cooper's
Creek with the remainder of the camels and supplies, without
unnecessary delay. McDonough states (Answer 197) that Mr. Burke
said to him, on the 15th of December, "I expect Mr. Wright up in a
few days--a fortnight at farthest. I left him POSITIVE INSTRUCTIONS
to follow me." King states (Answer 693) "that on the 16th of
December, Mr. Burke told the party 'he then expected Mr. Wright
daily.'" Wright himself states in his evidence (Answer 1235), "I
gave Mr. Burke my word that I would take the remainder of the party
out, as soon as I returned to Menindie."

A circumstance happened about this time, (December 1860), which
delayed him, but not even that necessarily. Information reached
Melbourne that Mr. Stuart had nearly penetrated to the Gulf of
Carpentaria, more to the westward; that he had been driven back by
the natives, but would start again immediately. The Committee
thought it advisable to forward the intelligence to Mr. Burke. This
was done by a despatch to Swan Hill, where Mr. Foster was
superintendent of police. He accordingly sent on a trooper named
Lyons, who followed in the track of the party, and arrived at
Menindie just as Wright returned with his two natives, after
escorting the expedition to Torowoto. Lyons refused to give up the
despatch, as he had been ordered to place it in Mr. Burke's own
hands. Here was a plausible excuse for Wright, no doubt, so he sent
McPherson, a saddler by trade, who had been engaged en route by Mr.
Burke, accompanied by Dick, a native, to assist Lyons in his
pursuit of the leader. Had he put himself and the whole party in
motion at once, the subsequent misfortunes would have been averted.
Lyons and McPherson lost their way, being quite unable to overtake
Mr. Burke, who had eight days' start, travelling at the rate of
twenty miles a day. Neither had they ingenuity enough to find Mr.
Burke's tracks, although accompanied by a native, which is
inexplicable, if they trusted to Dick, who had both intelligence
and energy of purpose. He found his way back to Wright, however,
and was thus the means of saving the lives of the trooper and
McPherson.

Hodgkinson, we have seen, was despatched by Wright to Melbourne,
from Menindie, on the 19th of December, with letters assuming to be
written by himself, but, in fact, by Hodgkinson. Whether the
committee knew this does not appear: if they did not, here was one
reason for confirming Wright's appointment. Hodgkinson reached
Melbourne on the morning of the 30th, riding nearly four hundred
miles in eleven days. A meeting of the committee was called on
Monday, the 31st, at which his Excellency attended, and Hodgkinson
started on his return the same evening. This certainly was
business. Nearly double the sum that he had asked was allowed to
Wright, in cash. From the 5th of November, he lingered at Menindie,
until the 19th of December, doing nothing. He says he was waiting
for an answer to a letter he had previously sent. Dr. Macadam, the
Secretary, denies that he ever received such a letter. Wright is
here unworthy of credit, for he could not write. This was extracted
from himself, after considerable fencing, in his examination before
the Commission on the 12th of December, 1861:--

MR. WM. WRIGHT further examined.

Question 1565. There is evidently some discrepancy between
the statement that you wrote yourself on the 5th of November, when
you came back, and the statement of Dr. Macadam that no such letter
was ever received. This letter of yours of the 19th of December, is
it written by yourself?--The one I sent myself?

1566. The one of the 19th of December, is it in your own
handwriting?--The one that is missing?

1567. No; this one [handing a paper to the witness]?--No, it is
not; Hodgkinson did all the writing.

1568. Did he write the one that is stated to be missing?--No, he
did not.

1569. You wrote that one?--I wrote that with my own hand. I just
wrote a few words.

1570. Could your memory serve you sufficiently to write the purport
of that letter that is missing?--It would not.

1571. Nothing approaching to it?--I never thought for a moment of
keeping a copy of it, or of giving it to Hodgkinson to keep a copy.

1572. Have you no recollection of the general purport of it?--I
just mentioned that Mr. Burke had appointed me to take the party
out and take the command; that is about the heads of it.

1573. Have you any objection to write a letter similar to that one,
as nearly as you can remember it?--No. I write a very indifferent
hand.

1574. Which was the reason, it is to be presumed, why you got some
one to write the letter of the 19th?--Yes.

Hodgkinson arrived at Menindie on the 9th of January, 1861, and
immediately placed in Wright's hands the following letter:--

Melbourne, December 31st.

SIR,

Your despatch of the 19th instant, forwarded per Mr. Hodgkinson, was
laid before a meeting of the members of the Exploration Committee
held this day, when the following resolutions were carried
unanimously:

1. That a letter be forwarded to Mr. Wright, informing him that his
appointment as third in command of the Victorian Expedition, by Mr.
Burke, has been approved of and confirmed by this committee.

2. That Mr. Wright, third officer of the Victorian Expedition, be
empowered to procure a number of horses (not more than ten), and
the necessary accoutrements; and also one hundred and fifty (say
150) sheep, and be authorized to draw on the treasurer, the
Honourable David E. Wilkie, M.D., M.L.C., for an amount not
exceeding four hundred (say 400) pounds sterling, for their
purchase, and other necessary incidental expenses.

I have further to inform you that Mr. Hodgkinson, who returns as
the bearer of this despatch, will hand you an order from Mr.
Superintendent Foster, of Swan Hill, to obtain from trooper Lyons
the despatches for the leader, now in the possession of that
officer, and which it is desired you should hand to Mr. Burke.

It is hoped by the committee, that trooper Lyons and saddler
Macpherson have safely returned to the camp, and you will kindly
report as to the manner in which the former has endeavoured to
carry out the duty committed to his charge.

The medal for Dick, the aboriginal guide, bearing a suitable
inscription, is forwarded with this despatch, and the committee
leave in your hands the bestowal of such additional reward as you
may deem proper--not exceeding five guineas (say 5 pounds 5
shillings.)

Captain Cadell informed the committee to-day that his store at
Menindie would be at your service for depositing any articles you
may find it inconvenient to remove to Cooper's Creek at present.

You will endeavour to secure, if possible, twelve pommel
pack-saddles, now arrived, it is believed, on the Darling. These
were forwarded via Adelaide, and will no doubt be of great use to
the main party.

The committee desire that on your meeting with Mr. Burke, you will
show him, and deposit with him, this despatch, as also a copy of
yours of the 19th instant, together with copies of all despatches
you may forward to the committee during Mr. Burke's absence; and
the committee expect that you will communicate under such
circumstances as frequently as possible.

Mr. Hodgkinson bears letters for the leader and Mr. Wills.

In conclusion, it is hoped that your endeavours to remove the
stores from your present depot to Cooper's Creek will be early and
successfully accomplished.

I have the honour to be, sir,

Your obedient servant,

(Signed) JOHN MACADAM, M.D., Secretary.

To Mr. Wright, third in command, temporary depot, Plurarmora Creek,
Darling River, New South Wales.

. . .

Nothing can be clearer than the instructions herein conveyed; yet in
the face of them, Wright made no start until the 26th of January.
His answers to the Royal Commission were full of contradictions,
but to the main question of his delay he gave no answer at all.
From my own inquiries I never could make out that any one at
Menindie thought him fit for the post, or undertook to recommend
him. Captain Cadell did to the committee, but with Mr. Burke,
Captain Cadell was not on speaking terms.

Mr. Burke and my son proceeded onwards, accompanied by the reduced
party, consisting of Brahe, King, Gray, Patten, McDonough, and Dost
Mahomet, fifteen horses and sixteen camels, on the 29th of
September, 1860, and reached Cooper's Creek on the 11th of
November, a distance of about 250 miles. Here my son went out
occasionally, taking a man with him, to explore the country, far
and near. His great desire was to reach Carpentaria by the shortest
practicable cut, and he inclined to a direct northern course, or to
the eastward of north. The committee represented afterwards, as
prominently as they could put it, that Mr. Burke was left
unshackled on this point, but still suggestions were offered, which
a leader naturally considers he is expected to listen to. One of
these was, that on leaving Cooper's Creek they should proceed
towards Eyre's Creek and Sturt's Farthest (September, 1845); for
which I refer the reader to the map. My son could not see the
wisdom of this, as Sturt had declared that beyond that point he saw
nothing but an impenetrable desert. McDouall Stuart's return to
Adelaide was also reported, and that he was about to start again:
it therefore became a rival race as to who should reach the goal
first.

With reference to my son's exploration trips during the halt at
Cooper's Creek, Mr. Brahe, on his examination before the Royal
Commission, gave the following particulars:--

We travelled down the creek; our first camp on Cooper's Creek
was Camp 57; from some of the first camps Mr. Wills went out
exploring the creek.

Question 148. How long did you remain at the first camp?--One
night; at the second camp, two days; and at the third camp, two
days; and from each camp Mr. Wills went down tracing the creek.

149. And you remained two days at each camp for three camps down
the creek?--Yes.

150. Was the third camp the final camp formed on the creek?--No, at
the 63rd camp the first depot was formed. We remained there a
fortnight.

151. At the 63rd camp?--Yes, that would be the fifth or sixth camp
on the creek.

152. What were you doing that fortnight?--Mr. Wills was exploring
the country to the north; Mr. Burke was out with him once; Mr.
Burke was out with me first, and we could not go far enough with
horses, not finding any water away from the camp.

153. How far did you go?--About twenty-five miles straight; the
weather being very hot we could not go further: we had to return
the second day to the camp.

151. Then Mr. Wills went out by himself?--He went ninety miles; he
took McDonough with him and three camels.

155. And he lost one of his camels, did he not?--He lost the three
and returned on foot.

156. Was he much weakened by that journey?--Not Mr. Wills.

157. But McDonough was?--Rather.

158. Did they suffer from want of food as well as want of water?
--No, only from want of water.

159. How long did you remain after that before there was a final
start again?--I believe we started two or three days after that.
Mr. Wills went out a second time from that camp with King and only
two camels to bring down those things that he had left where he
lost the camels.

160. How far was that from the creek?--Ninety miles.

161. And he went out with King and two camels for the things that
he had left behind when he lost his camels and brought them back?
--Yes; and on the same day, or the day after, when Mr. Wills went
out on that second journey, Mr. Burke removed the depot to the
lower place.

162. Did those camels lost by Mr. Wills ever turn up?--I believe
two of them have been found near Adelaide.

163. In the meantime you went down to the last depot?--Yes.

164. How long did you remain there?--Mr. Burke started from there
about five or six days after Mr. Wills returned from that second
journey.

. . .

My son gives his own account of the exploration when the camels were
lost, in the following letter to his sister:--

Cooper's Creek, December 6th, 1860. Latitude 27 degrees 36 minutes,
Longitude 141 degrees 30 seconds.

MY DEAR BESSY,

You must excuse my writing with a pencil; ink dries so rapidly that
it is a nuisance to use it. We have been here now about three
weeks, and shall, I expect, make a start northwards in about a
fortnight. Our journey to this point has been interesting, but not
in any particular that you will care much about. Our party here
consists of eight men, sixteen camels, and fourteen horses. We
expect the rest of the men and camels up in a few weeks. Everything
has been very comfortable so far; in fact, more like a picnic party
than a serious exploration: but I suppose we shall have some little
difficulties to contend with soon. I had an intimation of something
of the kind a few days ago, having been out reconnoitring the
country to the north for three days, with one man and three camels,
and had found no water, so that the animals were very thirsty, and
on the third night managed to get away from us, leaving us about
eighty miles from the main camp, without hay or water, except what
remained of that which we had brought with us; so here was nothing
for it, but to walk home as soon as we could, carrying as much
water as possible, to be drunk on the way. After searching about in
order to be sure that the camels had gone home, we started at about
half-past seven, and were lucky enough to find a creek with some
water in it about ten miles on, where we remained until evening;
for it is dry work travelling in the middle of the day, with the
thermometer varying from 90 to 105 degrees in the shade, and about
140 degrees in the sun. Well, we started again in the evening and
walked until between nine and ten P.M.; and again at three A.M. and
pushed on until midday. We then went on from five P.M., as before,
until nine P.M.; and then from two A.M., and reached the camp at
nine A.M., having walked more than eighty miles in rather less than
fifty hours, including sleeping, feeding, and all stoppages. We
found no water all the way, except what I have mentioned above, so
that, as you may imagine, we ran rather short towards the end of
our journey, having not quite half a pint left between us. When we
stopped to rest the second night, it had been blowing a hot wind
all day, with the thermometer at 107 degrees in the shade. This
made us require more water than usual. I can assure you there is
nothing like a walk of this sort to make one appreciate the value
of a drink of cold water. We feel no inclination for anything else,
and smack our lips over a drop such as you would not think of
tasting, with as much relish as ever any one did over the best
sherry or champagne. I have enjoyed myself so far. It is now nearly
four months since we left Melbourne, and you will see by the map
that we are about half-way across the continent. I hope by the time
that this reaches you we shall not only have been entirely across,
but back here again, and possibly on our way to Melbourne. There is
no probability of the expedition lasting two or three years. I
expect to be in town again within twelve months from the time of
starting. I enclose a few chrysanthemums from the Australian
desert. I know you will highly prize them. To give you an idea of
Cooper's Creek, fancy extensive flat, sandy plains, covered with
herbs dried like hay, and imagine a creek or river, somewhat
similar in appearance and size to the Dart above the Weir, winding
its way through these flats, having its banks densely clothed with
gum trees and other evergreens:--so far there appears to be a
considerable resemblance, but now for the difference. The water of
Cooper's Creek is the colour of flood-water in the Dart; the latter
is a continuous running stream; Cooper's Creek is only a number of
waterholes. In some places it entirely disappears, the water in
flood-time spreading all over the flats and forming no regular
channel. The flies are very numerous, so that one can do nothing
without having a veil on; and whilst eating the only plan is to
wear goggles.

. . .

His next letter is written with ink:--

December 15th.

DEAR BESSY,

Since scribbling the above, I have been up to the place from
whence I had the walk I mentioned. The camels did not get away this
time. We have shifted our quarters to a better place, about twenty
miles down the creek. To-morrow we start for Eyre's Creek, about
two hundred miles towards the Una. There have been heavy
thunderstorms towards the north, and I hope we shall find plenty of
water. If so, I shall soon be able to send you a good long letter
without resorting to the use of a pencil. I wish I could send mamma
a few lines, but she must read yours and fancy it written to her: I
have not even time to send a line to my father. Tell mamma that I
am getting into that robust state of health that I always enjoy
when in the bush; a tremendous appetite, and can eat anything. One
of our chief articles of consumption is horseflesh: it is very
nice; you would scarcely know it from beef. Give my love to all, and

Believe me,

Ever your affectionate brother,

WILLIAM J. WILLS.

. . .

Here we find my son, between the 1st and 15th of December,
travelling about five hundred miles, and walking from eighty to
ninety. McDonough, in his examination, gave altogether a falsified
account respecting the loss of the camels, as he also made a
bombastic statement of his great intimacy with Mr. Burke. The real
truth is, that McDonough was the least trustworthy of the party. He
would not have been taken by my son, but in the morning Mr. Burke
had volunteered to accompany him, so that McDonough would not have
been left alone; but after travelling a short distance, Mr. Burke
did not feel well, and returned. At the place mentioned by my son
as having dismounted, he told McDonough that he wished to make some
observations, and was going to a rising ground at a distance; that
the camels should feed, but he was not to lose sight of them for an
instant. Instead of attending to his instructions, McDonough set to
work to light a fire and boil his pannikin. Perhaps he went to
sleep; for he pointed out some stunted bushes in the distance and
said they were the camels. My son then sent him to search for them,
but they could not be found. King, the only survivor of the party,
on his examination, said:--

Mr. Wills told me that the camels were lost through
McDonough's neglect during the time he was writing and taking
observations.

Question 1737. McDonough never disputed that, did he?--McDonough
told me that it was while they were at supper in the evening; but I
do not see how that could be, because they generally took supper,
and ourselves, about six o'clock; and it was so dark that they
could not see the camels, so that they were most likely lost when
Mr. Wills was taking observations.

. . .

Mr. Burke, in his report from Cooper's Creek, dated December
the 13th, says:--"Mr. Wills, upon one occasion, travelled ninety
miles to the north, without finding water, when his camels escaped,
and he and the man who accompanied him were obliged to return on
foot, which they accomplished in forty-eight hours. Fortunately,
upon their return they found a pool of water. The three camels have
not yet been recovered. . .Mr. Wills co-operates cordially with me.
He is a most zealous and efficient officer."

King, in the course of his evidence stated as follows:--

Question 667. What did you do when you got to Cooper's Creek;
did you go on any of these expeditions with Mr. Burke or Mr. Wills?
--Yes; when Mr. Burke made our first depot at the creek, Mr. Burke,
Mr. Wills, and McDonough started one morning to try and find water
some distance to the north. Mr. Burke seemed not to be well, and
returned after going a mile or so, and so McDonough and Mr. Wills
continued, and were away some few days; I do not know the exact
number of days; they lost the camels (three in number) and had to
return to the depot on foot.

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